A Guided Hike to Canada's World Famous Fossil Site

One very unique experience offered by the Canadian Rockies is the chance to set foot on one of the world's best known fossil sites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in itself, led by a Parks Canada Guide. Imagine walking into a massive burial of prehistoric creatures 500 million years old, where fossils are so abundant that you CANNOT possibly take a step without stepping on some animal more ancient than any dinosaur. That is the uniqueness of the Burgess Shale fossil beds at Yoho National Park.



To put into context how famous the Burgess Shale is: I still remember reading about it in my high school science textbook, many years ago, where it probably discussed the Cambrian Explosion. In fact if you walk into a Cambrian (500 million years ago) fossil exhibit at any major natural history museum in North America, there's a good chance that many specimens came from Burgess Shale. This is the kind of place you read about in National Geographic, and I couldn't resist when I heard about this guided hike into the site, located just 2 hour's drive from Banff.



At the time of writing Parks Canada offers two different guided hikes to what is collective called the Burgess Shale fossil sites. Both hikes must be carried out under the supervision of a licensed guide, and both fossil sites are under constant video surveillance to ensure that no fossil is removed by visitors. Walcott Quarry is a 20km round-trip, 10 hour hike; Mount Stephen is considerably shorter (6km round-trip in 7 hours) but very steep towards the top. We signed up for the short and steep hike up Mount Stephen, thinking it would be relatively easier. Well ... it wasn't easy, as we're about to find out.



The hike has to be booked at least a day in advance, online or at the Visitor Centre in the town of Field, at the cost of CAD$55 as of 2011. Our hike started out very early, 7:30am in fact, in the town of Field where our guide Claudia assessed the group and gave a great introduction on the Burgess Shale and our upcoming hike. The atmosphere turned serious when she took out a large collection of old hiking/ski poles and made very sure that each of us would carry a pair before we set out. Everyone knew then that this would be no easy hike.



It was all uphill from the town of Field, with close to 800m of elevation gain to be covered in about 3 hours. The first 2.5 hours of the trail cut a winding path through a pristine forest of cedars and firs, with the occasional view point down towards Field. The steepness did not yet require hiking poles, which made us a little apprehensive. Somewhere along the trail we came across this serious-looking sign that we're about to enter a restricted area, and most importantly, that the removal of fossil is illegal.



In the final 45 minutes the trail became increasingly steep, to the point where we had to scramble with our hands at times (just look at the 40-degree slope in the picture's background). It was then apparent that poles would become crucial later when working our way downhill. But for now, we had arrived at the entrance of the famous trilobite beds of Mount Stephen.



The whole fossil site was a steep, barren shale quarry, situated right at the treeline at an elevation of 2000m. 1200m below the site lies the Kicking Horse River valley and the town of Field, and anywhere above the site is mountain goat territory. This is high, high up in the Canadian Rockies, and it's difficult to imagine that it used to be an ocean floor, back in the age of these fossilized creatures.



Claudia gave a lecture on paleontology at the only relatively flat spot at the site. At about 5 metres in diameter this was the only possible landing spot for helicopters in case someone in the group could not make it down by his/her own power. And given the steepness of the trail, that was a real possibility.



This was the gold mine that everyone in the group came to see -- a quarry of countless prehistoric fossils, all lying unclaimed at our feet. Our guide did remind us again though, that taking anything out of the quarry could get us prosecuted. Practically every piece of shale here contained the body or imprint of some prehistoric creature, and it was impossible to walk anywhere without stepping on, and possibly breaking, some fossil.



These beautifully complex trilobite shells were everyone's favorite fossil at the beginning. But after 30 minutes they had become so commonly found that one can hardly look anywhere without coming across a few new ones. In fact I personally probably broke a few just by walking around the quarry.



The discovery of fossils like this is what makes Burgess Shale one of the world's most important fossil sites. The preservation of shells and bones is common; having soft body parts and tissues preserved as fossils is very, very rare. Burgess Shale became a UNESCO World Heritage Site particularly for its excellent preservation of soft-bodied marine animals, such as this catepillar-like Aysheaia here.



After an hour's digging and lunch it was time to take the same trail downhill back towards town. This was the toughest part of the hike, starting with 30 minutes of descending a 40-degree steep narrow path of nothing but loose shale and eroded soil. See the slope in the background of the picture -- it was really that steep.



To make matters worse, two of the old hiking poles we borrowed weren't properly locking in position, making my wife very nervous on her way down. Thankfully our guide Claudia was kind enough to exchange one of her own poles with my wife, and to patiently teach my wife the proper way of using her poles as anchors on the downhill hike. We definitely wouldn't have made it safely downhill without her help.

At the end I kept wondering whether it would have been wiser to join that 20km roundtrip hike to Walcott Quarry. Yes it's much longer, but the elevation gain would be more gradual and the trail probably wasn't quite as steep. But we certainly have no regrets -- we were granted a rare opportunity to hike into one of the world's premier fossil sites, and came away with some great memories and a good story to tell. And even without the fossils, it's still a wonderful hike to a great panoramic vista at the top. It's an experience I fully recommend to my friends ... as long as they're reasonably fit and are not afraid of steep trails ...

Yoho - Banff's Scenery with a Tenth of the Crowds

Most Canadians recognize the lake in this picture as a vaguely familiar scene ... or they think they do. That's Moraine Lake in Banff National Park right?

Show this to a Canadian friend and see if you get a similar answer. Except this is NOT Moraine Lake. Or Lake Louise for that matter. And this is NOT inside Banff National Park. Unfortunately this just illustrates how relatively unknown Yoho National Park is, even to Canadians.



Banff has its turquoise Rocky Mountain glacial lakes ... but so does Yoho. Jasper has its jagged peaks and awe-inspiring waterfalls ... but so does Yoho. Banff and Jasper are world-famous. But Yoho, neighboring Banff on the opposite side of the continental divide, somehow still manages to remain under the radar of most visitors.



Some tourists, especially tour bus groups, do actually visit Yoho without realizing that it's not part of Banff. Located less than 2 hour's drive from Banff and just about an hour from Lake Louise, Yoho is conveniently within day-trip distance for guests staying in Banff National Park. Only the absence of major hotels and resorts ensures its serenity -- next to Yoho's tiny settlements Banff would feel almost metropolitan.



That should be good enough reason to visit, especially for those visiting Banff but want to spend time outside the developed resort town of Banff. Lake Louise too noisy for your liking? Yoho's Emerald Lake is equally stunning, attracts perhaps a tenth of Lake Louise's crowds, and has cheaper canoe rental rates too.



One the first day we visited the park's three major attractions -- Emerald Lake (see photos above), Natural Bridge (also see photos above), and the 250m tall Takakkaw Falls pictured here. We then spent one more day joining a Parks Canada guided hike to see the fossil beds at Mount Stephens.



On this 15-day road trip we had already come across plenty of mountain sheep, deer, elk, moose and bison. I've lived in Western Canada for years, and for the very first time I finally came face to face with a hoary marmot, a fluffy, house cat sized rodent. This little guy was just one the opposite side of the road when we returned from Takakkaw Falls.



Lake Louise has its five-star Fairmont Chateau, one of the most recognizable man-made landmarks in Banff National Park. But not many people know that Yoho's Emerald Lake Lodge is usually ranked higher in many traveler polls (eg.Conde Nast).



After taking a walk through in the courtyard of these secluded lakeside timber lodges, we were definitely convinced that this is one resort well worth splurging when we visit next time, even at the rate of nearly CAD$400 per night in the shoulder season.


CHEAP PLACES TO STAY
This time though, we somehow ended up staying at three different guesthouses/hotels on three nights around Yoho National Park.



We booked our first night at Mount 7 Guesthouse, a spacious, homey B&B operated by a friendly couple in Golden, the closest major town outside of Yoho. The bedroom was clean and spacious, the slate-tiled shower room stylish, and the breakfast filling. We wanted to stay for two extra nights, but they were fully booked during our visit in late July. Our gracious hosts were kind enough to call around and book us into the two following hotels.



On the second night we moved to the Great Divide Lodge on the shore of Wapta Lake, as we wanted to be close to the town of Field for our early morning hike up Mount Stephen. This was surprisingly one of the cheapest hotels on our trip, which was quite a bargain considering its excellent location (10 minutes drive to Field). The room was nothing worth writing about, but that's okay for its price.



We moved back to the town of Golden on the third night in anticipation for a long drive back to Vancouver. This was easily the most memorable accommodation of our trip, a rustic log cabin nestled right above the town.



The Kicking Horse Canyon Bed and Breakfast was housed inside an authentically Canadian full timber cabin, which according to our hostess Jeanine was built mostly by her husband. I couldn't help but wonder whether the deer and bear trophies hanging on the walls were also shot locally. The decor here had all the character of a folk museum, and we toured the house as if it was.



The rooms were very spacious as well, and spotlessly clean of course. We would seriously consider renting out the entire lodge if we ever plan a family vacation in the area.


INFORMAL DINING
As a Canadian, I can honestly tell you that the Rockies isn't the right place in Canada to look for great culinary discoveries. Here we'd be satisfied with good value meals at informal, relatively inexpensive joints.



We stumbled upon White Tooth Bistro in downtown Golden (427 9th Ave N) and was pleasantly surprised by its good value. These mussels cost a reasonable CAD$13.5 per pound, which would be considered a good deal even in Vancouver or Calgary.



Seafood Linguine at CAD$16.75. Crispy tiger prawns, sweet scallops, smoked salmon and more mussels, simply seasoned with fresh tomatoes and olive oil. Again everything was well executed beyond what we were expecting at this price.



My wife's duck confit salad at CAD$13.25, also reasonably priced compared to Vancouver. The confit was sourced from Canards du Lac Brome, which seems to supply most Canadian restaurants here in Western Canada. According to my wife, the taste was nowhere as complex and concentrated as the confit served at her favorite restaurants in Quebec.



The other restaurant worth a mention was the Truffle Pigs Bistro in the small town of Field, the only real settlement within Yoho National Park. Within Field this is probably the only decent eatery, which also runs a general store and a lodging business upstairs from the bistro.



The meal actually started with a mistake on the part of the bistro -- I originally ordered a Beef Bourguignon, but somehow the order got mixed up and this pork tenderloin (CAD$25) arrived at my table. I'm normally not a fan of pork tenderloins, but this turned out to be one of the best dishes of the trip. The pork was perfectly and tenderly done, complimented by a simple and refreshing rhubarb sauce, crispy deep fried green onions, and good (but not excellent) gnocchi. As compensation for the mix up I was served a free beer, for which I can't really complain.



We wife ordered ... what's new ... more duck leg confit (CAD$25). The dish itself was well executed, but again we're not fans of confit produced by Canards du Lac Brome. Smaller suppliers in Quebec always seem to make much better confit.



My wife also ordered a seafood chowder (CAD$8), the flavor of which I don't really remember. This meal ended up a little more expensive than the other dinner at White Tooth Bistro, but it was still decent value considering its location inside a national park.

Crown of the North American Continent

I first read about Waterton from the official UNESCO website, when I browsed through the list of World Heritage Sites in Canada.



Banff, Jasper and the Rocky Mountain Parks occupy their rightful position prominently on the list. The sites of Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump and Dinosaur Provincial Park are much lesser known, but Canadians should approve of their importance to the cultural and natural heritage of Western Canada. But most Canadians I knew, myself included, had never heard of Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. How does this little-known southwest corner of Alberta make it to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites along with the likes of Great Barrier Reef and Kilimanjaro?



Curiosity was enough reason for a detour into the Waterton area during our 15-day roadtrip through the Canadian Rockies and the Alberta Prairies. Unlike our carefully preplanned week of outdoor activities in Banff and Jasper, our two full days in Waterton started with minimal pre-trip research and absolutely no expectations -- I knew there's a lake, there's a boat ride to the U.S.A. side of the lake, and that we should take our Canadian passport. That's all we knew, and the rest would come as discoveries.



A delightful first impression greeted us as we approached Waterton from the eastern prairies. Self-proclaimed as the Place where the Rockies meet the Prairies, Waterton Lakes National Park is surrounded by miles upon miles of cattle ranches, small lakes and river crossings. From here the Rocky Mountains extend south into Glacier National Park, the American half of the World Heritage Site.



The only form of public transportation linking the Canadian to the American side of the Waterton Lake comes in the form of a 45-minute trip upon a classic 80-plus-year-old wooden boat, which makes several trips a day to the Goat Haunt Ranger Station at the northern tip of Glacier National Park. Frankly speaking there isn't anything spectacular about the boat trip -- it's all about the hiking in the pristine wilderness surrounding the lake.



The most famous hike is known as the Crypt Lake Trail, once voted as Canada's best hike and famous for its breathtaking scenery, as well as its narrow cliff-side paths and the crawling through a narrow tunnel. We chose the easier and more popular Kootenai Lakes Trail, a 4km (each way) path through the rainforest into one of the park's prime moose habitats.



It was Day 10 of our trip through the Canadian Rockies, and so far we had run into bighorn sheeps, elks, several species of deer, American bisons, and even a hoary marmot ... but no moose. In fact we later learned that moose sightings were so rare in the Canadian Rockies that the native tribes considered it a fortuitous omen. The prospect of viewing one of these gentle giants in its natural habitat was the main goal of our hike, and after about an hour things started to look up as we came across a moose footprint in the mud.

We arrived at the Kootenai Lakes around 12:15 after an easy, but mosquito-plagued 75 minute hike. Time for a picnic lunch on the lakeshore, and then ...



The owners of the premises decided to come out for lunch as well. Not one, but a family of three moose came out of the woods and started diving into the lake, probably to graze on the underwater vegetation. An antlerless cow moose started first about 150 metres from our lakeshore position, then a HUGE bull moose with ginormous antlers came out a little further away. These moose behaved almost like seals, spending most of their time foraging underwater while resurfacing only to breath and spy on the surroundings.



A third moose, a younger bull moose with a smaller antler came out and stayed for an extended period of time. As I made my way through the forest to find a better position for pictures, the cow moose likely spotted me and started to make loud groans to warn her child. With the huge bull still in sight, that was as far as I was willing to push my luck on this day.



As it turned out this family of moose shared their pristine, glacial fed lake with quite a few neighbors. Beavers apparently inhabit the Kootenai Lakes, as indicated by these freshly fallen trees bearing their teethmarks. A black bear was also seen foraging around on the lake shore on this day, according to the elderly couple who watched the moose with us. So this is really prime wildlife-watching territory, on-par with Jasper National Park, according to our experience here in mid-July.



Taking the boat back to the Canadian side of the park brought us to its most famous landmark -- in fact one of the most photographed hotels in North America. The Prince of Wales Hotel is a grandiose historic hotel modeled after the finest mountain chalets in the Swiss tradition back in the 1920's, and at the time of our visit, commanded a peak summer rate of CAD$259 in their simplest room with lake view.



Walking through the extravagant hotel lobby for a few quick pics was of course free. The structure is a designated National Historic Site after all, and the period decor with the panoramic view of the lake all make for excellent photos. Afternoon tea cost CAD$30 at the time of writing, a considerable bargain compared to other Canadian landmarks like Victoria's Empress Hotel.



But it was drifting way too far from reality when a male concierge dressed in a Scottish kilt came up to the curb to meet the red limousine. Kitschy and nostalgic, there's no mistaking that this was once North America's best attempt of a posh European resort. Now it's a relatively unknown jewel buried at a remote, yet spectacular corner of the continent.



A remarkably underrated National Park for all its natural wonders, Waterton is a refreshing departure from the gradual commercialization of other Canadian Rockies parks (ie. Banff). Towering peaks and beaming glaciers, abundant wildlife viewing opportunities, and entire mountain sides carpeted with wildflowers are just some of the scenery we came across.



But stay clear of the hordes of deer roaming the townsite! You've been warned!



Further Reading:

Crown of the Continent - an excellent resource of the National Parks of Waterton and Glacier, created by National Geographics

Official National Park Website - Official info on park services, trail conditions etc.

Glacier National Park Website - Official site of the American half of the World Heritage Site, including information on the Kootenai Lake and Crypt Lake trails

Waterton's Official Tourism Site - excellent list of activities and accommodations

Waterton Cruise - The historic tour boat connecting the Canadian side of the lake with the American side

Outpost Motel - the hotel where we stayed, very cheap (CAD$70 in peak summer season), very clean, but located 40 minutes away in Cardston

Waterton-Crowsnest B&B - List of bed and breakfast accommodations in the surrounding area

Alpenwood Guesthouse - An inexpensive little B&Bs in the surrounding area

Great Canadian Barn Dance - A family accommodation and a uniquely Canadian experience, if your visit happens to coincide with the weekly barn dance

Canada's (Almost) Unknown World Heritage Site

This page is dedicated to what I feel is one of Western Canada's most underrated destinations.

In my mind it ranks among little-known gems like Gokayama and Telc -- world-class destinations in their own unique ways, yet somehow remain under the radar of 99.9% of tourists.



Unlike most obscure and unheard-of destinations, this place is not entirely unknown (being a UNESCO World Heritage Site) or inaccessible (being only 2.5 hours from Calgary). So how does Dinosaur Provincial Park still manage to remain undiscovered by the masses?



First, most foreign tourists, and even Canadian tourist outside of Alberta, have never heard of Dinosaur Provincial Park despite accolades from UNESCO.

Second, even though most Albertans have heard of it, only a fraction would actually visit.

Among those who visit, even fewer would stay for the magnificent sunset that brings the best out of the amazing landscape.

Finally, among those who do stay for the sunset, few would get inside the restricted areas of the Park where the most stunning views are exposed.

You get the idea.



For us this is one of our favorite memories of Alberta, if not of the entire Western Canada. And I hope that after reading this article, you too will appreciate the unique charm of this region and add this to your trip of Western Canada.



For two-and-a-half magical hours we were guided into the restricted areas of Dinosaur Provincial Park, containing some of the world's greatest concentration of dinosaur fossils, to quietly enjoy a spectacular sunset in the surroundings of the most extraordinary Badlands landscape.



Many of our favorite photos of our Canadian Rockies and Prairies road-trip came out of this small-group tour organized by the Provincial Park. Aptly named the "Sunset Tour," this short trek started in the final hours of summertime daylight when the warm colors of the sun intensified the dramatic beauty of the Badlands' sandstone formations.



I can find no words to satisfactorily describe the stunning, raw beauty of one of the most dramatic Canadian landscapes. The setting sun lent its warm, orange palette to these ancient sandstones while casting long slivers of dark shadows upon the rocks, underneath which thousands of once-terrifying reptiles sleep in permanent tranquility. Only a handful places like this can be found anywhere in the world, and this is likely the most accessible.



The tour is typically run from 19:00 to 21:00, though our enthusiastic guide volunteered to lengthen the tour, to everyone's delight, to give us more time to photograph and soak up the atmosphere of the sunset over a strangely romantic landscape.



Something with the appearance of a dead tree-trunk caught the eyes of my wife, who brought it to the attention of our interpretive guide. Well it's dead for sure, but it wasn't a tree-trunk.



It turned out to be a fossilized dinosaur leg bone, as explained by our guide. After a short lesson on fossil identification and understanding what we've been treading upon, it was almost impossible not to step on fossil fragments for the rest of the tour. It is this amazing concentration of Cretaceous reptilian fossils that led to the park's inclusion as a World Heritage Site.



This was the moment we all eagerly waited for, and at the same time wished that time would stand still for us. The sun descended beyond the prairie horizon under a brilliant canopy of blood red. This was our own favorite sunset, which we found to be no less spectacular than the famous sunset at Oia village in Santorini, widely considered to be one of the world's best. And the romance in the air would become even more climactic ...



A full moon started rising above the rock spires over the eastern night sky, at the same time that the sun flirted with the western horizon. Nobody spoke a word -- there was only the awed silence, with the occasional howl of coyotes far in the background.



The planned 21:00 end to our tour stretched to 21:45, largely due to our accommodating guide who voluntarily gave up her own time to show us more of the park's incredible scenery. On the way back we even stopped again for one more photo of wildflowers swaying under the moonlight. Thanks Cory for the great tour!



The Sunset tour can be booked online at the Dinosaur Provincial Park's official website, at the cost of CAD$25 as of 2010. If you're planning a visit to the Canadian Rockies (ie.Banff), combining these beautiful Badlands with the magnificence of the Canadian Rockies would make a an excellent trip to cherish for years. The Dinosaur Provincial Park is located near Brooks, only a 3.5-hour-drive from Banff and is an excellent overnight trip from Banff or Calgary.

A day-trip from Banff or Calgary is not recommended, as you'll want to wait for the warm, golden lighting of the sunset upon the Badlands' dramatic landscape. That means you may want a place nearby to stay for the night ...


ACCOMMODATIONS AROUND DINOSAUR PROVINCIAL PARK

Several options exist when it comes to accommodations around Dinosaur Provincial Park.

CAMPING INSIDE THE PROVINCIAL PARK
The provincial park has a large number of campsite spaces, which are rarely fully booked aside from public holidays (eg. Canada Day long weekend, Labour Day long weekend etc). Spaces can also be booked ahead of time at the park's official website.


STAYING IN THE CITY OF BROOKS
The nearest town is Brooks, a 40-minute drive to the southwest of the park. The main drag (2nd Street West) has a few chain hotels (Best Western, Holiday Inn) that tend to overcharge about $150 for a double room during the summer peak season.


A 96-YEAR-OLD HOTEL HIDDEN INSIDE THE VILLAGE OF PATRICIA
This is probably the first photographed review of Patricia Hotel anywhere on the web -- I've searched everywhere online prior to our trip and couldn't find anything.


The village of Patricia is the closest thing to a proper community in the vicinity of Dinosaur Provincial Park, just a 10-minute drive to the southwest. Boasting a grand total of 2 streets, this little hamlet has just one commercial establishment that multitasks as a greasy-spoon cafe during breakfast, the local retiree's hangout in the mid-day heat, a watering hole after a day's hard work on the farm (the pub is even named the "Water Hole"), and at night transforms into a rustic hotel for the odd traveler passing by.



Dating from 1915, the hotel is said to be the oldest remaining structure of a once-thriving farming and ranching community. Back in the early 1900's Patricia was an important stop along the old wagon trail connecting to Calgary, but was relegated to obscurity when horse-drawn wagons gave way to the Canadian Pacific Railway built 20km to the south. The newly incorporated town of Brooks quickly became the region's urban centre, while Patricia diminished to an anonymous hamlet at the edge of the Badlands.



How do we know all this? Well it's all according to an older gentleman we met there at breakfast, who is probably as good a source of information as any. I'm not sure if there's anything such as a town archive to keep records for this village of perhaps 50 permanent residents.



While the hotel doesn't look quite 90+ years old, the first floor is a genuine western bar dating from at least the 1950's. One corner of the tavern features an old-fashioned "steak pit" where the locals gather for a grill-your-own-steak dinner at the barbecue. During the pheasant hunting season the tavern is also home to the local hunter's association, and award plaques on the wall immortalize the valiance of the village's greatest hunters. One of which reads:

PPH&MD Rubber Ducky Awards

YEAR 2002. Recipient Jordan Given.

Accidental discharge of firearm while racing after his dog. On a further confession was guilty of spray painting his dog with a different kind of discharge brought on by over indulgence at Joe's bar the previous evening.

That's pure Canadian humour ... an old-fashioned western pub just can't get much more authentic than that.



As of summer 2010 the rooms still retained a lot of old-fashioned western decor from the 1950's. No air-con, but the sheets and the en-suite bathroom were very clean. Its peak summer season rate of CAD$66 was the best deal we found on our 15-day trip across Alberta.

RECENT UPDATE: It seems that Patricia Hotel is finally dipping its toes into the Internet era with a new official website. No email address given yet -- hopefully that will come in time.